Two Steps Around the World"

Episode 1, Part 4: City of the Gods — Luxor and the Karnak Temple

Miss Mi-yeon — Tue, 4 Aug 2026 22:30:58 +0900

If the last chapter took us past the tombs of Saqqara, today we're heading further south, to the heart of Egypt's New Kingdom — Luxor. Care to come along?

The flight from Cairo to Luxor takes about an hour. The moment we stepped off the plane, even the air felt different. Everything was quieter than Cairo, and the Nile curved gently through the city in a way that immediately caught our eye.

Our new guide, Fatima, met us at the airport. "Coming from Cairo, are you? This is a completely different world down here, " she said with a smile.

Karnak, a Vast Temple Dedicated to the Gods
A Temple Built Over Two Thousand Years
The moment we stepped into the Karnak Temple complex, the sheer scale of it was overwhelming.

This isn't a single structure — it's a vast complex that multiple pharaohs kept expanding over roughly two thousand years, starting around 2000 BCE.
The Science Behind the Great Hypostyle Hall
At the heart of the temple stands the Great Hypostyle Hall, lined with 134 enormous columns, each standing around 21 metres tall.

Architectural historians argue this arrangement wasn't purely decorative — it was deliberately designed to control how much sunlight entered the temple. Light filtering through narrow gaps was calculated to reach deep into the temple's interior at specific times of year, particularly the winter solstice.

My husband walked between the columns, clearly in awe. "How many people would it have taken to put these up?" Fatima answered, "According to the records, a significant portion of Egypt's entire population was involved, directly or indirectly, in the labour and resources that went into this one temple."

This image was created using AI to help our readers understand.

(The Great Hypostyle Hall at Karnak Temple, sunlight filtering between massive columns, 8K photorealistic)

The People We Met at the Temple
Traders Resting in the Shade
Along the shaded edges of the temple, several local craft sellers sat with their wares laid out.

One elderly man had a display of small hand-carved wooden figures, and rather than calling out to passersby, he simply offered a quiet nod as people walked past. That calm, unhurried manner is what actually stopped us in our tracks, and we ended up buying one of his carvings as a keepsake.

An Overly Enthusiastic Photographer
Near the temple entrance, a photographer approached us and wouldn't let up, insisting on taking "professional souvenir photos.

" We turned him down a few times, but he kept coming back with "just one more!" Eventually, Fatima laughed and said a few words to him in Egyptian Arabic, and he finally backed off with a sheepish grin. "That guy does this every time, " Fatima said, shrugging. We ended up laughing about it for a good while afterwards.

This image was created using AI to help our readers understand.

(The couple walking between the columns of Karnak Temple in the afternoon light, 8K photorealistic)

Luxor Temple and the Avenue of Sphinxes
A Road Linking Humans and Gods
A roughly 3km avenue lined with sphinx statues connects Karnak to Luxor Temple. Known as the Avenue of Sphinxes, this processional route was walked by pharaohs and priests during ancient festival ceremonies.

A recent restoration project has reconnected the entire avenue, meaning you can now walk the exact same path people walked three thousand years ago.

The Geology of the Obelisk
At the entrance to Luxor Temple stands a massive obelisk (originally one of a matching pair — its twin now sits in Paris's Place de la Concorde).

This granite column was cut as a single piece from quarries in Aswan and transported by boat. Geologists studying the grain of the granite have found that ancient Egyptians precisely split these enormous rocks by driving wooden wedges into the stone and soaking them with water until they expanded.

An Evening on the Nile
A Small Celebration of Our Own
That evening, on Fatima's recommendation, we hired a small felucca — a traditional sailboat — to watch the sunset over the Nile.

With the river breeze on our faces, my husband said quietly, "The temples were built for the gods, but this moment right here is entirely ours." It was a strangely fitting end to the day — the grandeur of three-thousand-year-old temples paired with something as simple as an evening on the water.

Tourism around Luxor and Karnak forms a core pillar of southern Egypt's economy, and the livelihoods of local guides, traders, and boatmen are tied directly to these ruins. Fatima, the old man who carved our wooden figure, even the overeager photographer — all of them are part of what keeps these three-thousand-year-old stones alive today.

This image was created using AI to help our readers understand.

(The couple watching the sunset from a felucca on the Nile, 8K photorealistic, pastel orange sky)

[Today's Egypt Data — Episode 1, Part 4]

Karnak Temple construction period: roughly 2000 BCE to the 1st century CE (expanded over around two thousand years)
Great Hypostyle Hall columns: around 21 metres tall, 134 in total
Avenue of Sphinxes total length: approximately 3km

[Couple's Discovery Notes]

Husband's one-line verdict: "It felt less like walking through a temple and more like walking through time itself."
Today's biggest surprise: obelisks were split using wooden wedges and water
Tomorrow's task: heading to the Valley of the Kings to explore the pharaohs' tombs

[Disclaimer]

This post draws on research into the Karnak and Luxor temples and Egyptian archaeology, though the travel episodes, characters, and dialogue have been adapted for readability.

Explanations of specific construction techniques represent one of several competing theories.

[Travel expert's one-line comment]

"Karnak isn't the work of one person — it's the accumulated faith of generations, built up over two thousand years." — drawing on Egyptian archaeological research
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Episode 1, Part 3: Eternity Carved in Stone — The Ruins of Giza and Saqqara

Miss Mi-yeon — Mon, 3 Aug 2026 22:30:06 +0900

If the last chapter had us wandering the lanes of Islamic Cairo, today we're heading back out into the desert to meet the roots of Egyptian civilisation — the ruins themselves. Care to come along?

After our first encounter with the Giza plateau, Hassan suggested we head about 30 minutes south to Saqqara. "You can't say you've seen Egypt if all you've seen is Giza, " he said with a grin. "You need to see Saqqara to understand where it all really began."

The Step Pyramid, Where It All Started
Djoser's Step Pyramid
The moment we arrived at Saqqara, what caught our eye wasn't a smooth triangle but a unique, tiered structure rising in steps.

This is Djoser's Step Pyramid, designed around 2670 BCE by the architect Imhotep — Egypt's first great stone building.

Imhotep's Innovation
Imhotep was no ordinary architect. He's the first named architect in recorded Egyptian history, and he also served as a physician and priest.

What he attempted, for the first time, was building with stone instead of timber or mud brick — and once that attempt succeeded, it laid the groundwork for pyramid construction that would continue for centuries.

Geologists analysing the limestone blocks at Saqqara have confirmed these stones were shipped over by boat from quarries on the opposite bank of the Nile.

My husband looked up at the Step Pyramid and said, "So this was basically the prototype. Like a rough draft of the Giza pyramids." That was exactly the right way to put it.

This image was created using AI to help our readers understand.

(View of Djoser's Step Pyramid at Saqqara under a clear sky, 8K photorealistic)

The People We Met at the Site
The Quiet Caretaker
As we walked around the Step Pyramid, an elderly caretaker sitting in the shade, fanning himself, caught our eye.

When our eyes met, he gave us a quiet nod hello. He didn't say much, but there was something striking about the calm, unhurried expression of someone who'd been watching over this place for decades.

A Young Man Selling Fake Antiquities
Near the exit of the site, a young man approached us holding a small stone fragment, insisting it was a "genuine ancient artefact." With a very earnest expression, he claimed it was "certified by a museum" and quoted a hefty price.

Hassan leaned in and said quietly, "That's just a recently made souvenir. Genuine artefacts can never legally be sold by individuals — it's against the law."

We politely declined, and the young man moved on to the next group of tourists without much fuss. It was a bit of an awkward moment, but a fun little taste of the haggling culture around Egypt's desert heritage sites.

This image was created using AI to help our readers understand.

(The couple walking through the Saqqara site with the Step Pyramid visible in the distance, 8K photorealistic)

Tombs That Lead Underground
Mastabas and Burial Culture
Beyond the Step Pyramid, Saqqara is also scattered with rectangular tombs known as "mastabas." This tomb style became the prototype for later pyramid construction, and the walls inside are finely carved with scenes of everyday life at the time — farming, herding livestock, feasting.

Archaeologists analysing the pigments in these wall paintings have confirmed that ancient Egyptians ground minerals like malachite and hematite to create their colours. Remarkably, these pigments have kept their vivid colour after four thousand years, something conservation scientists attribute to the dry desert climate and the sealed environment inside the tombs.

We followed a narrow passage down into one of the tombs to see these paintings up close. Lit by torchlight, the figures looked almost alive, and my husband stood in silence for a long while, just taking them in.

A Quiet Moment of Our Own in the Desert
A Small Celebration Before the Ruins
That afternoon, we sat on a small rise near the Saqqara site and shared some basbousa, a traditional Egyptian sweet we'd brought along.

With our third wedding anniversary coming up, this turned out to be an unexpectedly perfect spot for it. Surrounded by tombs that had stood for over four thousand years, we quietly promised each other more moments like this one, for years to come.

The preservation and upkeep of Saqqara relies on ongoing funding from Egypt's tourism authority and archaeological bodies, and that support flows directly into jobs for local residents — guides, caretakers, souvenir sellers.

The quiet caretaker we met, and even the young man haggling over his "antiquity, " were both part of what keeps this ancient site alive today.

This image was created using AI to help our readers understand.

(The couple sharing basbousa on a hill near Saqqara in the afternoon light, 8K photorealistic)

[Today's Egypt Data — Episode 1, Part 3]

Djoser's Step Pyramid was built: around 2670 BCE
Architect Imhotep: the first architect whose name survives in recorded history
Mastaba wall painting pigments: mineral-based (malachite for green, hematite for red)

[Couple's Discovery Notes]

Husband's one-line verdict: "Saqqara is where Egypt's 'first attempts' still survive."

Today's biggest surprise: four-thousand-year-old wall paintings that still hold their colour
Tomorrow's task: heading to Luxor and the Karnak Temple

[Disclaimer]

This post draws on research into the ruins of Saqqara and Egyptian archaeology, though the travel episodes, characters, and dialogue have been adapted for readability.

The sale of artefacts within heritage sites is genuinely illegal, and the related episode is included for cultural context only.

[Travel expert's one-line comment]

"Saqqara isn't flashy, but every beginning of Egyptian architecture lives here." — drawing on Egyptian archaeological research
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Episode 1, Part 2: Time That Crossed the Desert — Egypt from the Middle Ages to the Modern Era

Miss Mi-yeon — Wed, 29 Jul 2026 22:28:33 +0900

If the last chapter had you standing beneath the blazing sun of ancient Egypt, today we're meeting an Egypt shaped by thousands of years since. Care to keep walking with us?

After wrapping up our time in Giza, we made our way into central Cairo. The scenery outside the taxi window changed completely. Instead of ancient desert ruins, minarets pierced the sky above tightly packed rows of old stone buildings.

"This is Islamic Cairo, " Hassan said, pointing out the window. "People are still using streets here that are over a thousand years old."

A Different Civilisation, Built on the Same Sand
The Arrival of Islamic Rule
In the 7th century, Islamic forces expanding out of the Arabian Peninsula reached Egypt, and the landscape of this land changed completely.

Mosques rose where ancient temples once stood, and Arabic replaced hieroglyphs as the official script. The Fatimid, Ayyubid, and Mamluk dynasties ruled Egypt in succession after that, and Cairo grew into a centre of scholarship and trade for the Islamic world.

Historians, working from population growth data for Cairo during this era, have concluded that the city was larger and more prosperous than any city in Europe at the time. In fact, a good number of the buildings lining the lane we were walking down had been built during the Mamluk period, between the 13th and 16th centuries.

Shifts Under Ottoman Rule
In 1517, the Ottoman Empire conquered Egypt, and the country found itself under yet another new system of rule. During this period, Cairo functioned as a regional administrative centre for the Ottoman Empire and established itself as a key hub along Mediterranean trade routes. My husband asked as we walked the lane, "So the people here just kept living through one ruler after another?"

I borrowed Hassan's explanation to answer him. "The rulers changed, but everyday life for the merchants didn't shift all that much. Spices, silk, and porcelain kept moving between Europe and Asia through these very streets."

This image was created using AI to help our readers understand.

(Narrow lanes of Islamic Cairo with minarets in view, afternoon light, 8K photorealistic, pastel tones)

At the Khan el-Khalili Market
A Street of Old Traders
Hassan led us to Khan el-Khalili, one of Cairo's oldest markets. Running continuously since the 14th century, its narrow lanes were still packed with spices, silverware, and perfume bottles at every turn.

Partway through the market, a spice trader offered us a small dish of saffron to smell. The shopkeeper next door kept calling out to us as we passed, trying to lure us into his stall, and he was pretty persistent about it. "Special price! Just for you two!" he repeated more than once, and we politely declined while trying not to laugh at how enthusiastic he was. There wasn't a hint of malice in it — if anything, it was just the market's usual buzz.

The Science Behind the Spice Trade
The saffron, cinnamon, and cloves traded here weren't just about flavour. In the medieval era, spices like these were often worth more than gold, thanks to their preservative and medicinal properties.

Producing just 1kg of saffron actually requires hand-harvesting the stigmas from around 150,000 crocus flowers — and that gruelling, labour-intensive process is the scientific reason behind saffron's staggering value.

This image was created using AI to help our readers understand.

(The couple examining spices at Khan el-Khalili market, 8K photorealistic, warm lighting)

Modern Egypt, Through Its Turbulent Years
The Suez Canal and the Centre of World Trade
In the 19th century, Egypt once again found itself at the centre of world history. The Suez Canal, opened in 1869, connected the Mediterranean and Red Seas, dramatically shortening the shipping route from Europe to Asia.

Building the canal required precise geological calculations — engineers had to measure the difference in sea levels between the two bodies of water accurately enough that water could flow naturally without the need for locks, an engineering achievement that was groundbreaking for its time.

Everyday Life in Modern Cairo
Before saying goodbye to Hassan, we stopped by an old teahouse along the Nile. The hibiscus tea we drank there — karkade — was, he told us, a symbol of everyday Egyptian culture running through the country's modern history. Inside, a group of older men were passing the time over a game of dominoes, and it struck me that the scene probably hadn't changed much in a hundred years.

Modern Cairo's tourism industry makes up a meaningful share of Egypt's national economy, and the traditional markets and heritage sites of Islamic Cairo, in particular, are a primary source of livelihood for local small traders. Every person we met that day — the spice trader, the teahouse owner — was part of what keeps these old streets alive.

This image was created using AI to help our readers understand.

(The couple drinking hibiscus tea at a Nile-side teahouse at sunset, 8K photorealistic, pastel orange tones)

[Today's Egypt Data — Episode 1, Part 2]

Islamic Cairo began taking shape: from the 7th century onward
Khan el-Khalili market opened: 14th century (Mamluk era)
Suez Canal opened: 1869

[Couple's Discovery Notes]

Husband's one-line verdict: "Egypt has never once stopped being the heart of trade."
Today's biggest surprise: it takes 150,000 crocus flowers to make 1kg of saffron
Tomorrow's task: beginning our exploration of the Valley of the Kings

[Disclaimer]

This post draws on research into Egypt's medieval and modern history, though the travel episodes, characters, and dialogue have been adapted for readability.

Certain statistics and figures are for reference only and may vary slightly across academic sources.

[Travel expert's one-line comment]

"Khan el-Khalili is a living museum. Trading practices from 700 years ago are still followed here, almost exactly as they were." — drawing on research into Middle Eastern trade history
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Episode 1, Part 1: The Time the Nile Gave Birth To — Ancient Egypt, the Civilisation the Desert Cradled

Miss Mi-yeon — Sun, 26 Jul 2026 22:30:49 +0900

If this journey speaks to you, hit subscribe and come along for the next country's story. Today, it's Egypt — the first civilisation the Nile ever shaped.

The automatic doors at Cairo International Airport slide open, and you're hit straight away by a wall of heat and an unfamiliar scent — spices, dust, and hot asphalt, all tangled together. Your husband grins as he wheels the suitcase along.

"Finally here. The pyramids you've been banging on about for three years."
Our accommodation was a small boutique hotel with the Giza plateau visible right out the window.

The check-in clerk took our passports and greeted us in Arabic. "Ahlan wa sahlan — welcome." My husband tried to repeat it back, badly, and the clerk laughed out loud. There wasn't a hint of mockery in it. If anything, it was warmth — the kind of laugh that welcomes a guest's clumsy first attempt.

In the lobby, a local family was moving their luggage past us, glancing our way. One of the kids pointed at the character stickers on our suitcase, wide-eyed, before his mum smiled and gently steered him along. Just a passing moment, really — but it was enough to warm up our first impression of Cairo.

What the Nile Built — and the Geology Behind It
It wasn't until we'd unpacked that I properly took in the Nile from our window. My husband asked the obvious question. "So why here, of all places? Slap bang in the middle of the desert?"

Where the Blue Nile Meets the White Nile
The answer sits in the geology. The Nile is formed where the Blue Nile, rising from the Ethiopian Highlands, meets the White Nile, flowing up from the African Great Lakes region.

Every wet season, volcanic sediment from upstream mixed into the floodwaters and washed downriver, and once the flood receded, it left behind mineral-rich black soil. Geologists studying the thickness of these sediment layers have found the Nile has flooded in almost the same pattern for thousands of years.

That's the geological reason civilisation grew up along this one narrow ribbon of river in the middle of a desert — a naturally occurring, remarkably predictable irrigation system.

How the Nilometer Worked
The ancient Egyptians didn't understand the mechanics of it, but they understood the pattern through sheer observation. That's why "nilometers" — devices for measuring the river's water level — turned up all along the banks.

Stepped wells were carved into the riverbank with markings etched into the walls to record water levels, and those readings even determined how much tax would be collected that year. My husband nodded slowly at that. "So basically, they were running the country on data." He wasn't wrong.

This image was created using AI to help our readers understand.

(View of the Nile River and Giza plateau from the hotel window at dawn, 8K photorealistic, soft pastel sky)

The People We Met at Giza
The next morning, before sunrise, we headed out to the Giza plateau — timed deliberately to beat the crowds. It paid off. As the first red light of dawn slowly revealed the silhouette of the Great Pyramid, you find yourself frozen where you stand, holding your breath.

The Plaza Waking Up
Early as it was, a handful of vendors had already set up along the plaza. One elderly woman had freshly baked "aish" — traditional Egyptian bread — laid out on her stall, quietly waiting for customers, while further off a group of tour bus drivers traded morning greetings over cigarettes. It was just an ordinary scene of the city starting its day, but standing in the middle of it, we felt, for a moment, like part of Cairo's morning too.

A Small Mishap with a Camel Handler
Then, from a quiet corner of the plaza, a camel handler approached. "Photo! Camel photo! Special price!" He quoted us a suspiciously low fare to ride his camel — but once we were up, he demanded several times that amount to let us back down. My husband froze for a second, and I wasn't sure how to handle it either.

That's when a man from a nearby group of tourists, who'd clearly seen this play out before, stepped over and murmured a quiet tip. "It's common around here. Always get the price written down first." Thanks to him, we managed to calmly settle on the price we'd originally agreed, and the handler backed off without much fuss. It rattled us for a moment, but by the end, it was just one of those early-trip mishaps we could laugh about.

Our guide that day was a man named Hassan. He'd been showing tourists around this area for forty years, and — separate from the camel incident entirely — he'd been with us from the start, leading the way toward the Deir el-Medina worker's village.

This image was created using AI to help our readers understand.

(Travel Kim and her husband silhouetted before the Giza pyramids at dawn, 8K photorealistic, soft pastel sky)

Who Really Built the Pyramids
"People think slaves built the pyramids, " Hassan said. "But recent digs tell a different story."

The Excavated Worker's Village
Since the 1990s, a large worker's settlement has been excavated just south of the Giza plateau. Archaeologists found the remains of ovens used for baking bread and vats for brewing beer, on a scale that suggests an organised supply system feeding thousands of workers every single day.

Skeletons found in the workers' burial sites also show evidence of healed fractures — a sign these people weren't simply worked to the bone, but were part of an organised labour force that received medical care.

The Ramp Theory and the Waterway Hypothesis
The construction methods themselves are still debated among scholars. The most widely accepted explanation is the "ramp theory" — that temporary ramps were built up in stages to haul the stone blocks into place. More recently, traces of a canal system found near the quarries have added weight to a competing theory: that waterways were used to transport the massive blocks by boat.

Walking the narrow lanes of Deir el-Medina, you listen to Hassan explain the graffiti and papyrus records left behind by the people who lived there — including a record of what looks very much like a strike, workers downing tools over unpaid wages — and the voices of people three thousand years gone suddenly feel close enough to touch.

Marking Our Own Anniversary in the Desert
That evening, Hassan made us an offer. "You said today's your wedding anniversary, didn't you? How about celebrating it the Egyptian way?" He led us to a small rise overlooking the plateau.

A Desert Sunset Ritual
Following the Bedouin tradition of honouring guests on special occasions, Hassan had brought along mint tea and dates. "In the desert, we mark celebrations with something sweet and something warm, " he explained.

We shared a small ritual, passing dates to one another, as the desert sky shifted from orange to violet. My husband said quietly, "Someone was probably watching this exact same sky three thousand years ago, celebrating with someone they loved.

" I didn't answer. I just reached for his hand. It's one of the moments from this trip I know I'll carry the longest.
That single evening wasn't just tourism. Tourism revenue from the Giza plateau makes up a significant share of Egypt's local economy, and it's tied directly to the livelihoods of guides like Hassan and the businesses around them. Watching Hassan's smile, we understood something real: these ruins aren't just relics of the past — they're a living resource holding up people's lives in Egypt right now.

This image was created using AI to help our readers understand.

(The couple celebrating their anniversary with dates and mint tea on a desert hill, 8K photorealistic, pastel orange sky)

[Today's Egypt Data — Episode 1, Part 1]

Nile's annual flood season: roughly June–September (historically; now regulated by the Aswan Dam)

Estimated construction time for the Great Pyramid: around 20 years

Excavation of Deir el-Medina worker's village began: early 20th century

[Couple's Discovery Notes]

Husband's one-line verdict: "Egypt isn't ruins — it's people's records, still breathing."

Today's biggest surprise: a 3,000-year-old record of a workers' strike

Tomorrow's task: tracing the pharaohs' footsteps through the Valley of the Kings

[Disclaimer]

This post draws on genuine research into ancient Egyptian history and archaeology, though the travel episodes, characters, and dialogue have been adapted for storytelling and readability.

Certain theories mentioned (such as the ramp theory) are one of several competing hypotheses still debated among scholars.

[Travel expert's one-line comment]

"The worker's village at Giza tells us more than the pyramids themselves ever could — it's proof of how a state organises its people." — drawing on Egyptological research
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"A Couple Walks the World"

Miss Mi-yeon — Mon, 20 Jul 2026 23:35:45 +0900

About This Blog

Hello, I'm Travel Kim.

My husband and I are a couple who walk our way through countries around the world, seeing, hearing, and recording each place's history, its heritage sites, its natural resources, its art, and the old stories that have been passed down through generations.

This image was created using AI to help our readers understand.

(Travel Kim and her husband standing before a world map, 8K photorealistic, pastel tones)

This blog, "A Couple's World Journey",

isn't just a collection of travel reviews. We started out in Australia — from the back streets of Sydney, and now we've made our way to the ruins of the Egyptian desert. Step by step, this blog holds the record of just how far we've come.

Whenever we cover a country, here's how we approach it:

#History — the real stories of the people who once lived on this land

#Heritage and Ruins — the raw feeling of standing there in person

#Natural Resources — the natural assets a country holds within it

#Art — the beauty left behind by an era and the hands that shaped it

#Folk Tales and Legends — old stories that carry the colour of a place

We leave politics out of it. What we want to share is purely the cultural depth of a country, and the stories of the people living within it.

All our content is grounded in scholarly research and verifiable scientific evidence, but reshaped into storytelling form through our own real travel experiences and emotions as a couple. Specific details or figures about destinations are for reference only — please check the latest official information before you travel.

Thanks for reading. Care to join us on the next country?

— Travel Kim & Husband

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Whether it's a question about one of our stories, a suggestion for a country we should cover next, or just a friendly hello — feel free to get in touch.

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We do our best to reply to every message, though we're often out travelling or researching the next chapter of our journey, so please bear with us if it takes a little while.
Thanks for reading A Couple's World Journey — we look forward to hearing from you.

— Travel Kim & Husband

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